Capileira, Sierra Nevada, Xmas 2000

Well, it was Xmas Eve and the cars were loaded with what seemed like enough stuff for forty people for forty days (Actually six adults and a two and a half year-old!) We left Nerja with the sun shining and headed towards Motril and then took the Granada road. Just before the new Dam we turned right following the signs for Orgiva. About ten minutes before Orgiva one of the cars had a puncture because of all of the rain there were a lot of rock falls and small landslides, one of which, the car that was travelling in front could not avoid (the roads are quite narrow here) never mind we all pulled over to stretch our legs. Guess what? no spare wheel. Fortunately one of the other cars spare wheel fit! BMW 320/Golf GTi. So we headed down to Orgiva where a friendly petrol station attendant rang his friend and ten minutes later we were in business, new tyre fitted and off we go.
The road climbs steeply out of Orgiva and we caught our first glimpse of snow on the mountains, it looked like we would get a white Xmas.
On through Canar and just before Pampaneira we stopped for a coffee at a bar just past the (hydro?) power station, they had a nice log fire, local wine and great Tapas, they also sell wine barrels.
Back on the road through Pampaneira and then left to Bubion and on to Capileira and the rain started.
When we got to the house it was pouring down.
The house we had rented was nice, great views of the snow covered mountains and with three double bedrooms and a nice lounge diner with a big log fire that ran the central heating. While some of us unloaded the cars, the others bought two wheel barrowfuls of logs (3 mille) and we got the fire roaring, although it took a couple of hours to get the radiators hot.
Once we had settled in and thawed out it was getting quite late, so we walked to the town to get something to eat......problems...the Spanish traditionally eat their Xmas family meal on Xmas Eve so nearly everywhere was closed. Luck was in and we found a restaurant that would feed us if we ate straight away. No Xmas Fayre here, but we had steak and chips.
Still raining outside and the bar was closing so off we headed looking for more refreshment... we did find one bar open but just after we got our drinks we were told, yeah, they were closing!
So back to the house to dry out and a few glasses of wine.
Next day dawned...raining and some more logs needed for the fire (3 mille)
We headed up the road out of town to get closer to the snow, but we only got a few kilometers before the road was closed because of black ice, ah well, we took some photographs and drove down to Pampaneira for a coffee and a wander about and then decided to have a drive up to Trevelez to buy a ham. The scenery on this road is stunning but finding somewhere to park to take pictures was impossible
There is a great bar/Jamon shop on the left as you enter Trevelez, and the guy there is both friendly and knowledgeable,
Prices range depending on age and quality.
He used a type of plastic skewer, which he inserted into the ham and then sniffed it. He actually threw four hams away before he was happy to sell us one.
The ceiling in the bar area is completely covered with hams, we counted seven hundred!

So back to Capileira for something to eat, we found what looked like a lovely restaurant, and after a couple of glasses of the local wine we asked the waiter if we could set our own table...no problem, so out came the Xmas tablecloth, Xmas decorations and candles and crackers.
The menu was very impressive and the starters were fine, but the main course was a big disappointment, cold plates, cold meat, small portions and one chicken dish was still raw in the middle.
So back to the house (still raining) for some Xmas cheer.
Boxing day and guess what...rain! so a day earlier than we planned we packed up and headed back to Nerja.
Not the most memorable Xmas for any of us, but the drive up there is worth it, the scenery terrific, and the local wines were excellent.
Next Christmas? Who Knows!

Capileira is 1450 m above sea level and 2 hours drive from Nerja (89Kilometers)